MILE 49.4, FISHERS GAP and FISHERS GAP OVERLOOK. Elevation 3,070 feet. Hikes, fire road crossing, AT access. The overlook is hidden from the Drive by a large wooded island; its north entrance is just south of the fire road. On the fire road, 100 feet west of the Drive, there is parking space for two or three cars. A few yards farther down the road is the AT. For hikes beginning at Fishers Gap, you should park in the overlook. The view from the overlook is limited: a narrow V-shaped view down Fox Hollow (not the same as the Fox Hollow near Dickey Ridge), and across the Valley to the Massanutten. Be sure to read the historic markers pertaining to Stonewall Jackson and his activity in this area. AT access is via a 55-yard trail which begins at a large rock where the parking area narrows at the south end of the overlook. Distances on the AT: south (to the left) it's 1.5 miles to the Big Meadows Amphitheater; north (to the right) it's 1.4 miles to Spitler Knoll Overlook. The AT crosses the fire road just to the north, which makes possible a very short "leg-stretcher" hike, as follows:
Wildflower note: The purple clematis, Clematis verticillaris, is an uncommon wildflower, but it blooms beside the AT below the overlook, usually in late April. It's a vine, producing large showy flowers with four long, limp, pale-purple sepals. In early April look for the pale violet flowers of hepatica, which is usually the first spring flower to bloom. The fire road that crosses the ridge just north of the overlook is the old Gordonsville Turnpike. On the east side it descends through the Rose River valley, leaves the park, and becomes SR 670. Three miles outside the boundary it passes the Graves Mountain Lodge, near Syria. On the west it's called the Redgate Road. It descends 4.3 miles to the park boundary, where it becomes SR 611, and continues to Stanley. History: In November 1862, Stonewall Jackson used this road to lead his large army across the mountain on the way to Fredericksburg, where he was instrumental in defeating the Union Army under General Burnside. This road follows an older trail that may date back to the 1700s. Claude Yowell, historian of Madison County, Va., says the road known as the Blue Ridge Turnpike was built as a toll road in 1849-50. On the east side of the ridge, the road descends into Dark Hollow. Three hikes that begin at Fishers Gap Overlook are suggested: |
Trivia: Rose River was named for early settlers, not for flowers. On an old map (1795) it's called Rows River.
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MILE 50.7, DARK HOLLOW FALLS PARKING. Elevation 3,425 feet. It has been said that of all the waterfalls in the park, Dark Hollow Falls is closest to the Drive and easiest to get to. (But see the description of waterfall at mile 1.4.) Remember that "easy" is a relative term and while it is easy going down to the falls, the real effort required is coming back up. Trivia: Milepost 50 to Milepost 51 is the shortest mile on the Drive: just eight-tenths of a mile long. When the mileposts were put in, the Drive did not go through the deep cut in the hillside to the south of here, as it does now. Instead it made a loop to the east, starting near the south end of the parking area.
Harry F. Byrd Sr. Visitor Center. Ranger staffed information desk, publications, exhibits, and films about the history of the park. There are new (2006) restrooms just outside the front door. The visitor center was opened to the public in April, 1966. Films are shown frequently, on a regular schedule. Ask at the information desk. Ranger guided activities can be scheduled here. More importantly, the staff are outstanding resources for planning hikes, recommending activities that match your interest and ability or identifying the animal you might have seen along the Drive. The exhibits in the visitor's center and the films were totally redone in recent years. They reflect new understanding of the history and impact of the park's establishment as well as the results of research done by the park staff on all aspects of the park over the last seventy plus years. The Shenandoah National Park Association operates a park store with many publications for sale that contain much in-depth information about the park, including many guides, as well as general references on flora and fauna that will greatly enhance your visit. The publications include many designed especially for children. If you are visiting with children ask about the Junior Ranger Program. This very popular program has proven to be a practical way to enrich the park experience for junior visitors and helps parents and children to share the experience. On July 3, 1936, the park dedication ceremony took place here. Thousands of people were seated, on chairs, on chestnut logs, and on the ground. Bands played from bandstands beside the speaker's platform. Amplifiers and loudspeakers carried the sound to everyone, and the program was broadcast from coast to coast by NBC and CBS radio. After speeches by Harold Ickes (Secretary of the Interior) and George Peery (Governor of Virginia), President Franklin D. Roosevelt dedicated the park in a short speech that ended with:
The meadow was much larger then than it is now. It extended, with a few islands of trees, to the ridge in front of you, and down the other side. Behind you it reached the present site of Big Meadows Campground. It stretched from Fishers Gap, mile 49.4, to beyond Milam Gap, mile 52.8. An estimate of its present size is 132 acres. This is the largest environment of its kind in the park. It produces rare plants that don't grow elsewhere in Virginia. There was once a "ghost forest" of dead chestnut trees here at Big Meadows, where the visitor center and parking area are now. Also at the left edge of the meadow was a CCC Camp - Camp Fechner, named for the Director of the CCC. Several mountains can be seen from the balcony. A little to the right of center is Fork Mountain, just outside the park. The antenna tower on its summit belongs to the State Police.
Click here for a printable map Hike HC-34: Big Meadows. A walk in the meadow is recommended. Distance, as far as you want. Time, whatever you can spare. While Big Meadows is on Map MC-8, there is no recommended route. This is primarily a wildflower walk; but there are birds to be watched, and a good chance of seeing deer. Outlines of the CCC buildings are maintained by selective mowing.
MILE 51.3, RAPIDAN ROAD, east side. The road goes 6.3 miles to Rapidan Camp and, eventually, to Criglersville. Rapidan Camp is easier to walk to from Milam Gap, mile 52.8. MILE 51.4, SERVICE ROAD and PARKING AREA, west side. This road provides the easiest access to Lewis Falls, though the slightly longer circuit hike from the amphitheater area is recommended (see Hike HC-37).
MILE 51.5, TANNERS RIDGE OVERLOOK. Elevation 3,465 feet. The sketch identifies most of what you see from here. To the right of Roundhead Ridge is the town of Stanley. The name of Dog Slaughter Ridge shown in the sketch is of unclear origin, though Slaughter was the name of a family in this area. If you're here in the third week of July, take a minute to climb the bank across the Drive and look for the wood lily, Lilium philadelphicum, with fairly short stems, whorled leaves, and red-orange flowers marked with black. The lilies are getting scarcer, and there may be none when you read this. MILE 51.6, TANNERS RIDGE ADMINISTRATIVE ROAD, west side. Elevation 3,465 feet. AT access; cemetery. The AT crosses the road 0.3 mile from the Drive. Distances on the AT; north (to the right) it's 1.5 miles to the Big Meadows amphitheater; south (to the left) it's 1.1 miles to the Drive crossing in Milam Gap, mile 52.8. The cemetery is on the right side of the road, beside the AT. There are a few old markers here, but this is an active cemetery; burials are still taking place. Mile 52.8, MILAM GAP, elevation 3,230 feet. AT crossing; Rapidan Camp hikes. There's a large parking area on the west side. Distances on the AT: north (on the west side of the Drive) it's 1.1 miles to the Tanners Ridge fire road, and 2.6 miles to the Big Meadows amphitheater; south (on the east side) it's 2.8 miles to Bootens Gap, mile 55.1. Trivia: There are a great many apple trees in and around Milam Gap; most are Milam apples - the variety most often grown by the former residents. The Milam Apple Story Rapidan Camp Hikes. During his presidential administration, Herbert Hoover developed and came to his camp on the Rapidan River for relaxation and "working" holidays, much as later presidents have used Camp David. Rapidan Camp is a not-too-difficult hike from Milam Gap. Two hikes are recommended: one directly down the Mill Prong trail, returning by the same route (Hike HC-39); the second a somewhat longer circuit (Hike HC-40). Three of the camp's buildings, including the one occupied by the President, are still standing and recently restored. From late May to mid October, interpretive waysides and a map at the camp tell the story. You're free to explore the whole area. Ranger led guided tours via a van may be scheduled in season at the Big Meadows Visitors Center. In season there is an on-site volunteer at the camp to provide an orientation and to open the self-guided exhibit. For a time Rapidan Camp was called Camp Hoover. More recently, it is again referred to as Rapidan Camp, the name President Hoover always used in describing this place he loved so well. President Hoover, at the end of his administration, donated the camp to the government for possible use by future presidents. When the park was established, Rapidan Camp became a part of it. The camp has served many functions since that time, but its recent restoration is designed to recognize the important role it played during the Hoover presidency as well as in the establishment of the park. Editor's note: The Hoovers generous and thoughtful donation of Rapidan Camp to the federal government also provides additional insights into future presidencies. President Roosevelt was unable to take advantage of Rapidan Camp because polio had left him with limited mobility. Rapidan Camp in 1932 could be considered a classic case of a place having barriers to persons with disabilities. Roosevelt initially used cruising on the presidential yacht for relaxing and a get-a-way. With the advent of WW II, Roosevelt was advised to seek a more secure location for a retreat from the pressures of the White House. Roosevelt selected a rustic camp in the woods of Maryland, built by the CCC in the 1930s, called Shangri-La as his retreat. Subsequent presidents followed suit. President Eisenhower renamed Shangri-La, Camp David after his grandson. In the meantime Rapidan Camp was a Boy Scout Camp and then a place for senior government officials to enjoy a get-a-way at an historic site. President Carter (with his wife Rosalyn) was the last president to stay at Rapidan Camp. This editor and his wife have made a number of visits to Rapidan Camp. Several years ago when visiting on the weekend closest to President Hoover's birthday - when there has traditionally been an open house at Rapidan Camp - we were told an interesting bit of history relating to the Carter visit. A resident of Madison County who was a docent for the birthday event reported that the Carter's were disappointed to find only single beds at Rapidan Camp. They preferred a double bed. In the hope that the Carters would return, a double bed was made in the style of the historic beds. The ladies of Madison County made a patch-work quilt for a double bed in the style of those they had earlier prepared for the single beds. About the time the bed and quilt were finished, President Carter lost his reelection bid to Ronald Regan. The Carters never got to use the new furnishings. One more connection to presidential history remains. Vice-president Al Gore and his wife Tipper stayed at Rapidan Camp during the Clinton administration.
Click here for a printable map
You can notice on the porch of the Brown House and elsewhere that the buildings were built around the trees that were standing there. The Hoovers tried to disturb the area as little as possible. A short distance below the porch, the Mill Prong, coming from the left, and the Laurel Prong, coming from the right, meet to form the Rapidan River. The very small stream that flows through the camp was man-made by diverting existing stream flows; it's called Hemlock Run. Recently the Park Service installed exhibits in the Prime Minister and furnished the Brown House so it appears as it did when the Hoovers used it. The park staff even found some of the original furniture and used period pieces for missing items Check with the desk at the Big Meadow Visitor Center before starting out so that you can take advantage of available interpretive programs. (If you'd like more information about Rapidan Camp, see "Herbert Hoover's Hideaway" by Darwin Lambert. It's available at the visitor centers.) Return to Milam Gap the way you came. Looking at the map, you might be tempted to return by the Rapidan fire road to make a circuit hike. It is not recommended. From Rapidan Camp, it's 6.3 miles via fire road to the Drive at mile 51.3, but only just over two miles to your starting point via the way you came. |
HIKE HC-40: Rapidan Camp via Mill Prong Trail; return via Laurel Prong and AT Circuit 7.4 miles; total climb about 1,520 feet; time required 6:30. This is a moderately difficult hike because of its length and the amount of climbing; but no part of it is very rough or very steep. There are several stream crossings, all of them rather easy. See Map MC-9. The Laurel Prong Trail joins the AT below the bottom of the map.
As above to the Brown House, continue straight ahead on the blue-blazed Laurel Prong Trail. The trail follows an old road trace, which at first is a service road leading to the camp water source. The first half-mile is yellow-blazed. Half a mile from Rapidan Camp, watch for a junction where the road trace swings left and becomes the yellow-blazed Fork Mountain Trail. The Laurel Prong Trail, which you will follow, is blue-blazed beyond this point and it continues straight ahead. Wildflower notes: In late summer look for closed gentians here at the trail junction. In other seasons you may find a short side trip on the Fork Mountain Trail worthwhile. The Laurel Prong is less than 200 yards from the main trail. Before you reach it you'll enter a rich stand of the great rhododendron, Rhododendron maximum, which extends a quarter of a mile downstream and more than half a mile upstream. This species may not grow anywhere else in the park, though Rhododendron catawbiense occurs at several places in the South District. Because the Hoovers planted a number of flower species near the camp, it's tempting to think they planted the rhododendrons here. But a description of them was written in the early 1920s - years before Hoover selected this area for his camp. It described the flowers as beautiful: pink in bud, then white when fully opened, then fringed with pink as they mature. See if you agree. They're usually at the height of bloom about the middle of July. Continuing on the Laurel Prong Trail: there will be several stream crossings; not much water, but rocky or muddy. Traces of human habitation: a rock pile, and the remains of a rock wall. If the rhododendrons are in bloom, you'll see them on your left from several points along the trail. At 0.6 mile from the Fork Mountain Trail you'll cross the Laurel Prong (stream) and start to climb. After three-quarters of a mile of easy climbing through a pleasant open woods carpeted with ferns, you reach a trail junction on the ridge crest in Laurel Gap. To the left is the Cat Knob Trail. Stay on the blue-blazed Laurel Prong Trail, which turns 90 degrees to the right. From Laurel Gap, follow the trail along the south slope of Hazeltop, with the Conway River basin to your left, for exactly one mile to its junction with the white-blazed AT. Turn right on the AT. Less than half a mile from the junction, the AT crosses the crest of Hazeltop, elevation 3,816 feet - the third highest point in the park (after Hawksbill and Stony Man) and the highest point on the AT within the park. Continue, mostly downhill, another two miles on the AT to your starting point in Milam Gap. |
View from Naked Creek Overlook |
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MILE 53.2, NAKED CREEK OVERLOOK. Elevation 3,250 feet. The overlook provides a view down the valley formed by the east branch of Naked Creek (see sketch). Elkton is the town in the valley, out beyond the mouth of the hollow. The house over on Long Ridge is outside the park. Out of sight on the far side of Smith Mountain is Steam Hollow which, Heatwole heard, got its name from the steam produced by the moonshine stills that used to operate there.
Naked Creek Falls is down in the hollow, less than a mile from the overlook. The falls are worth seeing if you like exploring and have enough experience to do so safely. There is no trail; this is a cross-country hike through the woods. You can expect to find fallen trees, rocks and brambles. This hike is more easily accomplished during the non-green seasons (e.g. when the leaves are off the trees). Start at the south end of the overlook, go downhill to the stream, then downstream to the falls. To return, with no chance of getting lost: go uphill from the falls to the Drive, then turn left and walk along the Drive to the overlook.
MILE 53.6 to 54.6, wildflower note: scattered along both sides of the Drive in this area are plants that look like giant Queen Anne's lace, with flat-topped umbels of white flowers that bloom in June. Because the plants often grow eight or ten feet high they look like they belong in the tropics, or maybe on Venus. This is cow parsnip, Heracleum maximum.